Day 6 - Hanoi

10th March 2011
For my second day in Hanoi, I tried to cram the rest of the key sights the city has to offer in one day. My first stop was the Dong Xuan Market, which was just a few minutes walk from the hostel. Originally built by the French in 1889, Dong Xuan Market sells everything from clothes, household goods, souvenirs to food. It is a great place to wander around and shop even though I didn’t get anything. The market also has a giant hole in the middle of the center with no warning signs or barricade. In the surrounding area are more street side markets. The street vendors fill the air with savoury smells, as does their food.

While walking back from the markets to my hostel, I saw something unusual...a bag of live frogs in the streets.



The next destination on my checklist was Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum to visit Uncle Ho. The site is located further away from the main city centre. I could walk there but decided to take a motorcycle taxi instead to save time and because it's just so cheap. Motorcycle taxi are so ubiquitous in Hanoi (you find them in every street corner) and it's easy to haggle with them. Try walking away to find another one if you don't like the price. At times this prompts a drastic price reduction. We agreed on a fare of $1.50 and the driver took me through the city streets into the tree lined boulevards, past various embassies and government buildings and after about 15 minutes drive I arrived in my destination.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum is an austere grey structure built of stone where Uncle Ho’s embalmed body is on display for public viewing. This sight is Vietnam's holiest of holies so a respectful demeanour is required, and the dress code mandates no shorts or sleeveless shirts. And photography is strictly prohibited. The line to Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum was very long, but fortunately moved quite quickly. They made everyone line up two by two and march in a straight line down a set path into the building. I entered the cold, dark room where a waxy, long-dead Uncle Ho lies, eerily illuminated under a couple of dim spotlights. The line kept on moving at quite a rapid pace and before I knew it I was exiting the mausoleum after spending just mere seconds walking past Ho Chi Minh's body. It was a very strange experience.

After the Mausoleum, it was a case of following the tourist route to see the One Pillar Pagoda. The Pagoda stands on a pillar in the middle of a small lotus lake. It was originally built in the 11th century on a single wooden pillar and was designed to resemble a lotus flower. It was burnt down by the French in 1954 and rebuilt later on an ugly concrete pillar. Ho Chi Minh Museum was also nearby but I didn't feel like going in.

Next stop was the Temple of Literature, originally built as a temple dedicated Confucius. This is the site of Vietnam's first university dating back to 1070. Inside are the stone stele mounted on the backs of turtles, inscribed with the names of the university's graduates. The complex is divided into five courtyards with different paths Temple of Literature with its halls, ponds, courtyards, pavillions all surrounded by the walls and trees. You could spend a few hours there - it is a nice peaceful break – like a sanctuary in the midst of chaos. I, on the other hand, did it in 30 minutes. I guess I was all templed out from my last trip to Japan (Thanks to Kyoto).

After walking all over Hanoi, I was feeling tired so I decided to take a cyclo (1-2 seaters tricycle taxi) back to my hostel. It is suppose to be a fun and different way to tour the city especially with the busy traffic. But the cyclo driver I had tried to screw me over. He took me on a brief spin through the city, dropped me off at the wrong location and demand ten times what we agreed upon. I was quoted 20,000 Dongs ($1) but when I got off the driver said he meant 200,000 Dongs ($10). We got into argument and I told him I wasn't going to pay him that much. I tried to be reasonable and offered him 50,000 but he refuse to take it. After about 5 minutes of pointless arguing, I had enough and just threw the money on the ground and quickly walked away. I could hear him shout after me but I just didn't care. I was a bit angry that he lied and tried to rip me off. But becoming too upset about it is entirely useless. It’s all part of the Hanoi experience. And it wasn't much money anyway.

Dodging the traffic, strolling around the Lake, exploring the Old Quarter again, shopping and trying out different types of food pretty much sums up the rest of the day. There wasn't really anything left to do in the city. I was getting a bit bored, I preferred Saigon. I think Hanoi is a great city to kick back, wander around and soak in the atmosphere but only for a day or two.